Laser

Which laser suits your skin?

By Mikki· Published 8 July 2026· Last reviewed 8 July 2026· ~7 min read

Not all lasers are the same, and the right one depends on your skin tone and the area being treated. Diode lasers (like ours, at 800nm) are the versatile all-rounder that safely covers a wide range of skin tones. Alexandrite suits fair skin, Nd:YAG reaches the darkest skin safely, and IPL isn’t strictly a laser at all. Matching the technology to you is a safety decision, not a detail.

In short

  • Diode (800nm): the versatile workhorse — effective across a wide range of skin tones, good for most areas. It’s what we use.
  • Alexandrite (755nm): fast and effective on fair skin; not for darker tones.
  • Nd:YAG (1064nm): penetrates deeper, the safest choice for the darkest skin.
  • IPL: not a true laser — scattered light, weaker and less precise; common in cheap devices.
  • The match matters: the right laser for your Fitzpatrick type is what keeps treatment safe and effective.

Why the type of laser matters

A laser’s wavelength decides how deep it reaches and how it interacts with pigment — which is exactly why skin tone determines the right choice.

All hair-removal lasers target melanin (pigment). The challenge is hitting the pigment in the hair without overheating the pigment in the skin — harder on darker skin, which holds more melanin. Different wavelengths solve this differently, which is why the right laser depends on your skin tone. Here’s how the main types compare.

The technologies

Laser types, matched to skin

TypeWavelengthBest for
Diode800–810nmWide range of skin tones — versatile all-rounder
Alexandrite755nmFair skin (I–III); fast on large areas
Nd:YAG1064nmThe darkest skin (V–VI); deeper, safest there
IPLBroad spectrumNot a true laser; light skin, dark hair only

Fitzpatrick I (very fair) to VI (deeply pigmented). Your skin type is assessed at consultation to choose safe settings.

Diode — the versatile all-rounder

The diode laser (around 800nm) is the modern workhorse and what we use in Aldgate. Its wavelength strikes a balance — deep enough to be effective, controlled enough to treat a wide range of skin tones safely when paired with contact cooling. For most people and most areas, a diode with a skilled practitioner is the reliable choice, which is why it’s become the standard in serious clinics.

Alexandrite — fast on fair skin

Alexandrite (755nm) is highly effective and quick on fairer skin (Fitzpatrick I–III), making it popular for treating larger areas on light skin. Its shorter wavelength is more strongly absorbed by melanin, though, so it isn’t suitable for darker skin, where it raises the risk of pigment change.

Nd:YAG — safest for the darkest skin

Nd:YAG (1064nm) uses a longer wavelength that penetrates deeper and is absorbed less by skin melanin, making it the safest option for the darkest skin tones (Fitzpatrick V–VI). It can be a little less comfortable and sometimes needs more sessions, but for very deep skin tones it’s the benchmark for safety. We cover this fully in safe laser for darker skin.

IPL — not really a laser

IPL (intense pulsed light) scatters a broad spectrum of light rather than a single laser wavelength. It’s less precise, generally weaker, and only suits light skin with dark hair — and it’s what most cut-price and at-home devices actually use. We compare it directly in diode laser vs IPL and professional vs at-home.

You don’t need to memorise wavelengths — you need a clinic that assesses your skin honestly and uses a laser suited to it. That match is the whole point.

What this means for you

The practical takeaway: ask what laser a clinic uses and whether it suits your skin tone — especially if your skin is deeper, where the wrong choice carries real risk. Body area matters too (coarse, deep hair versus fine facial hair responds differently), and a good practitioner factors both into your settings. If you’re in the City of London, we’ll assess your skin type and confirm the right approach at a free consultation at our Aldgate clinic.

Frequently asked

Common questions.

Which laser is best for dark skin?
For the darkest skin tones (Fitzpatrick V–VI), an Nd:YAG laser at 1064nm is generally the safest because its longer wavelength penetrates deeper and is absorbed less by skin melanin, reducing the risk of burns and pigment change. A modern diode laser with contact cooling and correct settings also treats darker skin safely, which is what many specialist clinics use.
What is a diode laser and who is it good for?
A diode laser (around 800nm) is the versatile modern standard for hair removal. Its wavelength is deep enough to be effective yet controlled enough to treat a wide range of skin tones safely when paired with skin cooling. It suits most people and most body areas, which is why it is widely used in specialist clinics.
Is IPL the same as laser?
No. IPL (intense pulsed light) scatters a broad spectrum of light rather than firing a single laser wavelength, so it is less precise and generally weaker. It only suits light skin with dark hair and is what most cheap and at-home devices use. A true laser, such as a diode, is more effective and treats a wider range of skin tones.
Does the body area affect which laser or settings are used?
Yes. Coarse, deep hair on areas like the bikini or underarms responds differently from fine facial hair, and the practitioner adjusts the settings accordingly. The laser type is chosen mainly for your skin tone, but a skilled practitioner tailors the energy and approach to each area for safe, effective results.
How do I know a clinic is using the right laser for me?
Ask what laser they use and whether it suits your Fitzpatrick skin type, and expect a consultation that assesses your skin before any treatment. This matters most for darker skin, where the wrong laser or settings carry real risk. A reputable clinic explains its technology and matches it to your skin.
M

Reviewed by Mikki

Founder & lead laser practitioner

Mikki has performed over 17,000 laser treatments in Aldgate since 2019 using a modern diode laser, and assesses every client’s skin type before treatment. She wrote this so people know the machine should fit them, not the other way around.

Last reviewed: 8 July 2026 · Next review: January 2027
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